Have Your Latté and Drink Your Cocktail at Takoma Park’s New All-Day Cafe

This article first appeared in Washingtonian Magazine on June 20, 2017

 

People who like good coffee are often the kind of people who like good wine and cocktails. That was the thinking behind cousins Seth Cook and Chris Brown’s first restaurant, Takoma Beverage Company, which opened Sunday. The shop serves up coffee and pastries in the mornings, then transitions to cocktails, beer, and wine in the afternoon and evenings. A full food menu, ranging from avocado toast with a poached egg to a crispy pork belly, is available throughout the day.

While Cook, the former coffee director at Northside Social, is the brains behind the morning menu of espresso drinks and pour-overs, Brown brings a world traveler’s approach to food. Beyond visiting 25 different countries and 40 U.S. states in his lifetime, Brown worked as an agricultural extension officer in Tanzania while in the Peace Corps. During his time there, he gained an appreciation for organic farming and fresh vegetables, which is reflected on the the veggie-heavy menu.

For Cook, the important thing about the menu was that each product have a story—whether it’s the coffee beans passed directly from the farmer in Ethiopia to his shop in Takoma, or it’s kale from a local farm ten miles away used in the shop’s version of a Caesar salad.

While the menu highlights local products for food (designed by chef Liam LaCivita of Bar Civita) and pastries (from bakery Souk), Cook and Brown sourced most of their beverages internationally—“just to make sure we had the best and most beautiful examples out there of each drink we were serving,” Cook says. To do so, he brought on sommelier Sonja Eberly, mixologist Tim Higgins, and beer expert Drew Lemberg to hand-select options for the drink menu, like the pinot noir from New Zealand and the pilsner from the Czech Republic.

Overall, the drinks menu is purposefully short because Cook plans to change it up often. Expect three draft beers, four wines, and eight cocktails, including several summery drinks like the “Rose of Mary” (gin, lime, rosemary, honey, and sparkling water) and the “After the War” (gin, Aperol, orange juice, simple syrup, and Angostura bitters).

Counter Culture supplies the shop’s coffee. Beyond the lattés and espressos, the storefront will soon sell retail bags of the roaster’s beans, coffee brewing equipment, tea bags from Rishi, and even alcohol.

As of now, the Takoma Beverage Company shop is pretty small. The narrow set-up fits only the bar and a few tables lined against the opposite wall and window. But at the end of the month, the shop will expand into the next-door unit when the current tenant, vintage clothing store PollySue’s, relocates down the street. By August, the additional area will be home to a long communal table that will double as an after-hours events space. Coming up first are free coffee cuppings and classes led by Cook.

The events fit into the owners’ vision for the shop to be something more than a place where you do work on your laptop or grab a cappuccino to-go. On the tentative events docket is a social awareness program to recognize Ugandan NGO, Grassroots Reconciliation Group, founded by artist, Sasha Lezhnev, whose photographs line the shop’s walls.

Real Change. Right Here.

For many years, I was a Big Brother. Of course, I have been a big brother for all but those first two blissful years of my life (sorry, Ben), but the capitalized version is different. Big Brothers Big Sisters is a one-to-one mentoring organization that provides youth with adult role models—someone to provide guidance and positive examples. It is a great organization, and the reason I did it was that I wanted to be a part of change I could see right in front of me, right here where I live. There is no anonymity in mentoring, and the change you see is immediate and personal.

I have been looking for some time for an organization that can have the same effect, but on the broader community I live in and the industry I work in. I found it in La Cocina VA. After hearing a piece on NPR about the organization, I called the same day. I joined the Board of Directors weeks later.

La Cocina VA is primarily a culinary training center that provides people—primarily recent immigrants—with the skills and certification they need to work in the hospitality industry. “Job creators” are useless if there is no one with training to fill the jobs. La Cocina provides our industry with qualified and eager workers—something that we desperately need.

More than that, however, La Cocina VA offers hope to our most vulnerable community in the DC area. Language training, conflict resolution, counseling and food assistance are all a part of the program. La Cocina VA wants our members to become impactful members of the community beyond their job, and they understand that the ripple effect of that can be far and wide.

I am thrilled to have been asked to serve, and I hope that I can offer help in taking the organization to the next level. We are currently planning an ambitious new center in South Arlington. There will be a café and catering company to serve the Arlington residential and business community as well as an expanded training center and a culinary incubator to help members learn about the possibilities of entrepreneurship—yeah, I am all over that last part…

From the tiny basement of a church two blocks from where I grew up in Arlington, in the next couple years La Cocina VA will grow into a powerful force for change right here where we live. Skeptical? Look no further than the Founder and CEO, Paty Funegra. She quit her job to start La Cocina VA, and in its short existence, they’ve been visited by Senators and Congressmen, and she has been invited to the White House to talk about the mission.

I hope you’ll keep an eye on our progress and come visit us when we open the center—coffee is on me. Wait, foget that. Pay up—it’s for a good cause.

City Paper Feature Article

 

Spring Brings New Deals

I have been dying to write this blog post as all the details were being settled and all the documents signed. There is a long blog post in me about my love-hate relationship with lawyers. One of whom is my partner. Another time.

Nonetheless, as I write this the sun is bright and warm, and the air smells sweet from new blossoms and feels soft on my skin. Spring is here, and it is the time to leap forward with excitement and hope. As the last nails are hammered in for Takoma Beverage Company, they are only a moment from bursting into life. It has been an incredible—and incredibly fast—journey with founders Seth and Chris, and I am thrilled to see the opening just ahead. I hope you will come visit the store sometime to see for yourself what makes it such a great concept.

And more is coming to life in this season of naissance. We have partnered with two incredible concepts, and we are fundraising for both. Take a look below, and feel free to reach out to me if you are interested in hearing more.


 

City-State Brewing Company
The Flavor of the District

Founders James Warner and Kim Carnahan are committed to paying homage to their adopted hometown of Washington, DC, but they know that it will take more than a name to make a mark on the DC beer scene. James quit a promising career in politics to go all in on his hobby. He has worked in every capacity in the business, and all the while with the intent to learn as much as possible about the beer business so that City-State can be as successful as possible. I was sold on the beer at first taste, and it didn’t take much longer for me to be sold on the team. With a solid business plan in place and a significant amount of money already raised, James and Kim are far along in the process. Mothersauce will join with them to get City-State across the finish line and open for business.

The Eleanor
Bowling Lounge, Music, Bar & Grill

Adam Stein is a well-respected Chef and industry veteran who has launched multiple successful concepts over the years, and now he is ready to launch his own. The Eleanor will help to define Ivy City as the District’s next great neighborhood. The 7,000 square foot location will feature four bowling lanes, event/music space, a movie screen, bar and lounge area and an outdoor patio geared for large scale food and drink events like pig roasts and crab boils. Think of it as a cooler, bolder Spider Kelly’s. The Eleanor has the size, the style and the skill to make a huge impact that will go far beyond its neighborhood. With an LOI in hand for the location, the founders are ready to get going.


I hope that you enjoy this season and the hope and excitement it brings. It is great time for our company, and if you are interested in being a part of all that we are doing, feel free to reach out to me anytime at nick@mothersaucepartners.com.

 

Clarendon Metro

Carnage in Clarendon: Restaurant Trends in Arlington’s Hottest Neighborhood

“Define the definition.”

What the Hell is that supposed to mean? Beats me, but I said it. What can I say, it was my first podcast. I was recently a guest at the ARLnow.com offices for their series, “26 Square Miles-An Arlington Podcast.” Given my background and given the popularity of restaurant articles on the site, I was pretty sure that I was going to be asked about the recent spate of closings in Clarendon. It is a topic worth exploring for sure, and I did my best to contribute to the conversation.

If you are up for it, take a listen here. We jump right in, and then pull back to broader industry trends outside of just our neighborhood. At the end, we talk about the inspiration for Mothersauce, and the plans I have for the company.

So just what has been going on in Clarendon? Well…

Tagliatelle, Brixx (6 months), Park Lane (8 months), Ri Ra, Boulevard Woodgrill, Fuego, Spice, Hard Times, American Tap Room , Amsterdam Falafel.

That’s 10 this year, and I have probably left someone out. Rumors swirl about more closures on the way, and many in the neighborhood are seeing their numbers fall.

So what is behind the Carnage in Clarendon? Hyperbole aside, a lot.

Clarendon has come a long way since the days of my youth when we would head there for Vietnamese food and not much else. The Metro’s arrival, and the brilliant planning by County leaders about how to develop around Metro laid the foundation for the success many businesses have been able to enjoy subsequent. That was 40 years ago. The past 10 years the growth has exceeded even the most optimistic forecaster’s dreams, and Clarendon has become the destination nationally for development. It hit all the right metrics and the residents and businesses flocked.

But there is a limit.

Many of us who have been in the neighborhood for some time felt that the saturation point was inevitable, and we feel we hit it a couple years before half of the businesses above even opened. As operators raced to benefit from the exploding customer base in Clarendon, rents skyrocketed to levels that were just ridiculous. Businesses signed on to high rents right as the market became flooded with concepts.

At the same time, external trends worked to shrink the famous customer base. DC exploded. 14th St., Shaw, Navy Yard, Barracks Row, NoMa. Neighborhoods few would venture to five years ago have become sought after hot spots only a short, cheap Uber away. We have certainly felt that at Spider Kelly’s.

Stuck with high rent and fighting with similar concepts for a shrinking customer base doesn’t leave a business with a lot of runway to make it. This is only heightened if the concept offers nothing particularly distinct.

And so here we are.

As the culling continues, what remains to be seen is what comes next? Many of the concepts that close will be replaced by new concepts (Ri Ra, Boulevard Woodgrill, Hard Times). Others are rumored to be switching to retail. Still others remain dark with no signs of what is to come.

Clarendon is still a great place to live, work and do business, and there is still tremendous opportunity for success. What made it so attractive many years ago continues to be what will make it attractive in the future—proximity to the city, access to mass transit, great schools and parks, and of course a vibrant commercial corridor with great businesses.
The difference is that those of us still here need to work harder, be smarter and continue to try to grow our businesses to offer our customers what they want. Why do you think we built a Beer Garden?

I am a native Arlingtonian, and I still live in the County. My daughter goes to Arlington Public Schools and many years ago when the planning was being done to grow Arlington’s commercial centers and preserve our unique neighborhoods, it was my Mom, Judy Freshman, who helped with the plan. I am invested heavily in the County, and in Clarendon, and I am very optimistic about its future.

In the meantime, at Spider Kelly’s, we will continue to focus on getting better at what we do, and watch to see who is still around when the dust settles. Hopefully, we will be.

Full Podcast: http://arlnow.libsyn.com/ep-12-spider-kellys-co-owner-nick-freshman